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When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary honour.